Bukit China - got ghosts?

Many times I was asked, "Not scared ah, you stay in front of the Chinese cemetery?" Yes, our house is along Jalan Puteri Hang Li Poh (a.k.a Jalan Bukit China). We have the whole historic Bukit China facing us and ever since I can remember, there was nothing to it. No, we're not scared (having moved to this area I think since 1960) although the whole hill is reserved for the burial of the Chinese community since the Sultanate era. Now no more... That's where the famous Chinese princess, Puteri Hang Li Poh, had her private well and garden at one end of the hill.

Mandi Safar day on Bukit China

I remember when we were young, we used to play kites on the hill, hoping and tripping on the cemented graves. Not scared one ... Once a year, on the last Wednesday afternoon of bulan Safar, the Malays would throng the hill in front of our house to the top of the hill, here known as Bukit Gedung, to celebrate mandi Safar. There would be Dondang Sayang and joget lambak, time for dating and merry-making for the youths. Also hawker food galore ... There was a 'keramat' on top of Bukit Gedung. I don't understand how they could dance and dondang- sayanged on the graves! The merry-making only lasted in the afternoon though - after the Zohor prayers and last until just before the sun set. The 'mandi safar' is a thing of the past, since the religious authorities have banned its practice, considering it 'haram'.

The hill is still a favourite especially among joggers who are attracted to the undulating pathways, the long track zig-zagging among the many graves. But personally, I keep away from walking or jogging on the hill now, not that I'm scared, but respect for the dead. No, there are no ghosts ....