Gong, gong, gong . . . .Once upon a time when I was young, this vehicle which we called 'kereta lembu' (cow cart) would lumber through the narrow streets of old Melaka on a very special day. It was the last Wednesday of Safar, the second month of the Muslim calendar. The cart would be decorated with colourful curtains, paper flowers and crepe paper. The cow was 'guided' through the streets by the 'driver' sitting in the cart just behind the animal. In his hands were the reins and a long, thin stick. Other passengers in the cart were women, all dressed-up, and maybe some other members of the family. Sometimes we could see a convoy of such carts passing before our shop. As they lumbered on, we could hear the melodious, rhythmic beat of the 'gong' accompanying the women singing. We would run excitedly to see the procession as they passed by.
Where were they going on that special day? You see these carts were from surrounding villages on their way to the beach at Tanjong Kling, about 20 km or so from town for a once-a-year Mandi Safar (mandi = bathe) festival. It was then believed among the Malays that the month of Safar was a month of bad luck. So each time on the last Wednesday of the month, they would travel to Tanjong Kling to camp and dip themselves in the sea to wash off the bad luck. Besides them, many visitors from far and near would be there too to share the fun.
It was interesting to see all the carts arranged in a huge circle, the owners sharing food pot-luck style. The scene reminded me something similar to the gypsies in old Europe. The feast would start after noon lasting through the night till the next day! And at night, things came to life! By the way, the gentle cows would be tied near some coconut trees being well-fed with sacks and sacks of dried grass after their hard work. I suppose the cows had a pow-wow too among them! After dipping and bathing in the sea in the afternoon, it was time for some merry-making. Then the musical instruments would appear - the violins and the gong. Gong, gong, gong . . .There was singing and dancing the joget lambak Malacca style - only among the ladies mind you. It was all prim and proper like. The famous Dondang Sayang and Serampang Laut would continue till the wee hours of the night. The singers tried to out-do one another with their witty lyrics. Of course then I was too naive to undertand! The next day, they would pack their belongings and the cow carts would journey home slowly to their villages. This time there was no music accompaniment.
This culture or belief that Safar was a bad luck month is against Islam. All months are the same, there is no bad month in Islam. The practice was more akin to the Hindus, like in India where the Hindu believers dip themselves in the Ganges to wash-off any bad luck. Hinduism came to the Malay Peninsula some 500 years ago before Islam did. So it was not surprising that the locals adapted some of the customs even till today. The Malaysian government had banned the practice of Mandi Safar in the late 60's, saying that it was against Islamic practices. Hence we don't see the colourful 'kereta lembu' on the streets anymore. But you can see them at tourists spots at the edge of town like the one in the picture above.
However, I'm glad I had the chance to observe this 'lost' culture and share it here with you.
1 comment:
Dear Hajah,
Many years ago, my parents told me about mandi safar and how its no longer practiced in Melaka but they couldnt elaborate on it. Yr account is the only account i've heard that contains all the details and gives us a glimpse into the past. Well done!
I had the privilege of meeting a special person last Friday who was none other than Amal. I'm sure you already know this but nevermind! I heard you were going to the same function but later around magrib. Too bad i couldnt meet you because i left at 6.45pm. Wasnt it a lovely reception? I was so thrilled with my goody bag!!
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